Ingredients

1 side of salmon (about 3 pounds), trimmed of fat and excess skin, and small pin bones removed with tweezers

Freshly grated zest of 1 orange, plus 2 oranges, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds

Freshly grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 2 lemons, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds

Freshly grated zest of 1 lime

2 teaspoons coarse salt

2 teaspoons sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground white pepper

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Spring-Pea Sauce

Pea shoots or watercress, for garnish

Preparation

Place salmon, skin side down, in a nonreactive baking dish (glass or ceramic) large enough for it to lay flat.

Stir together zests, salt, sugar, pepper, and coriander in a small bowl. Rub spice blend all over salmon. Wrap salmon in plastic wrap. Refrigerate 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wipe spice blend from salmon with paper towels. Let fish stand at room temperature 20 minutes.

Arrange half of the orange and lemon slices in a single layer in a large roasting pan; place salmon, skin side down, on top. Rub oil all over salmon. Roast until cooked through, about 17 minutes.

Cut salmon crosswise into 8 pieces. Divide pea sauce among serving plates. Place a piece of salmon on each plate, and garnish with pea shoots and remaining orange and lemon slices.