Ingredients

The Soup Base:

2 pounds cucumbers

1 cup buttermilk, whole-milk yogurt, sour cream, or a mixture

1/2 cup coarsely chopped herbs, including basil, dill, cilantro, and lovage

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Zest and juice of 2 lemons, or to taste

The Cucumber Relish:

2 tablespoons minced chives or scallions

1 tablespoon minced dill

2 tablespoons each finely chopped basil and cilantro

1 lovage leaf, finely slivered

2 teaspoons olive oil

Preparation

  1. Peel and seed the cucumber. Use one to make a cup of small dice and set it aside, then coarsely chop the rest. Puree in a blender or food processor with the buttermilk, chopped herbs, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the zest and juice from 1 lemon. Chill.

  2. Just before serving, toss the reserved diced cucumber with the herbs, a few pinches of salt, the olive oil, and the remaining lemon juice and zest.

  3. Taste the soup for salt, pepper, and acidity, adding more lemon juice if needed, then serve in chilled bowls with the cucumber-herb relish.